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Chapter 4

Trick Methods And Short Cuts

Although accuracy and authenticity are important factors in model making, many of the more difficult details in the building of ship models can be obviated through the use of timesaving kinks and simplified methods of construction.

In most cases, ship models, especially those of sailing ships, are purely decorative pieces; effect rather than workability is the desired quality. How this effect is obtained is unimportant as long as the finished product gives the appearance of life and reality.

On smaller models particularly, many of the deck fittings and pieces of rigging can be simulated with nails, tacks, wire, and other odds and ends that clutter up most household tool drawers. Small fittings can be cut and shaped from flat celluloid combs. And homemade tools can simplify otherwise difficult jobs.

For instance, chocks and bollards can be made easily without resorting to casting by cutting cardboard or thin metal to the proper shape, gluing or cementing it to the deck, and driving pins or nails in as shown in Fig. 1. If brass or other metal is used, the holes will have to be drilled exactly to size for the pins, and the pins may be soldered to the plate. In the case of bollards, it is advisable to use escutcheon pins rather than ordinary pins because their heads are a better shape.

Excellent model bollards also can be improvised by making use of the metal cases of exploded, low-caliber rifle shells. Glued, cemented, or soldered to a base of cardboard or metal and fastened to the deck, they give a realistic effect that is hard to duplicate.

Cases.of exploded Rifles shells

Cardboard Or MetalPlates


Bollard                            Chock

FIG. I

Imitation metal davits often can be made from ordinary fish hooks of the proper size (Fig. 2). A portion of the hooked end is cut off and the davit is fastened to the hull with a brad run through the eye at the other end. It is then a simple matter to tie and glue the threads that support the boats. The davits can be set facing either inward or outward, depending on the requirements of the particular model.

To give the effect of turned brass stanchions similar to those shown in Fig. 13 of Chapter III, an ingenious ship modeler can make use of the pins taken from ordinary hinges. The hinges can be obtained in various sizes for five or ten cents a pair, sometimes for less. By selecting the right size, it is possible to make realistic stanchions for a large or medium size model.

Drops Of Cement Form Blocks
Boat Suspended Outboard By Reversing Davits

Deck 
Fig.3

 
The pins are removed from the hinges and the caps or knobs pulled loose with a pair of pliers (Fig. 3). This is done to simplify the drilling of the holes for the top rail. The pins are then cut to the right length and inserted in holes drilled at the proper intervals in the deck. After the caps have been drilled and slipped on the wire railing, they are moved to the correct position and the railing is bent to the required shape.

One of the most difficult jobs in the building of a small model (under eighteen inches) is shaping the tiny deadeyes that are required. Here again, the ingenious model maker can simplify the problem.

                                                                                           Outbo,Side-

A good substitute for small deadeye and chain plate assemblies can be made from pins, wood plastic composition, and ordinary wire eyes of the type that are used with hooks on women's dresses (see Fig. 4). The eyes are flattened out and applied to the rigging with knots and bent pins. After a prepared wood putty has been molded into the eyes and painted black, the imitation deadeyes and lanyards will appear quite realistic.

Although not recommended for use on large true-to scale models, dress fasteners of the type shown in Fig. 4 also form a substitute for deadeyes. They can be obtained at any five-and-ten-cent store, notions store, or general mail order house. The sizes range from about 3/16 to 7/16 in. in diameter.
Radio and ship model making may seem like two unrelated arts, yet your box of spare radio parts will furnish a wealth of material for ship model fittings. For example, neat searchlights for destroyer and battleship models can be made from the metal caps of discarded grid leaks. These can be mounted as shown in Fig. 5 on a small binding post by means of a Y-shaped loop of copper wire.

Similarly, the brass nuts from old dry cells will furnish excellent material for model capstans. A small amount of shaping with a file will make them look like the real thing.

The plates taken from discarded variable condensers will supply you with thin aluminum stock. An assortment of heavy copper wire can be used in making belaying pins, pintles, and many other small parts. Hard rubber panels will provide material for small fittings that must be strong and easily shaped.
 
Small and medium sized ship models may be simplified by making the hull in two parts. The work is more convenient to handle and the rigging can be made taut without the contortions generally necessary to tie small knots in inaccessible places.

Two pieces of wood are selected for the hull, each one being large enough to take the deck plan of the model. As to the thickness, one should be thicker than the depth of the hull above the water line and the other slightly thicker than the hull depth below the water line. Insert dowels as shown in Fig. 6, making them tight enough to hold the hull together.

Carve and shape the hull in the usual way, pull the two parts of the hull apart, and remove the dowels. Deck fittings and other parts then can be built up, holes for the masts completely drilled through the upper block, and the two halves of the hull painted separately, making a clean-cut water line.

At the points in the sides of the upper half of the hull where the shrouds and backstays are normally attached, holes of a size a little larger than the thread to be used for the rigging should be drilled diagonally into the block and out through the bottom. The masts then can be stepped, inserted in the mast holes, and the standing rigging run right through the holes and left with long ends. The threads can be drawn taut from the underside of the upper block in pairs, one from each side of the ship, and held with toothpicks dipped in cement, pushed into the holes, and then cut off flush. To make the thread ends stiff enough to be pushed through the holes without the aid of a needle, rub the tips with a little quick-drying cement.

When the model is completed, the two halves can be redoweled and cemented permanently.
The task of shaping the sections of a mast can be simplified greatly if they are cut in one piece. Select a dowel whose length equals the sum of all the parts of the mast to be built up and whose diameter is that of the foot of the mast. Clamp a small plane in a vise or hold it between your knees as shown in Fig. 17a of Chapter III, and draw the dowel over the cutter until a good taper, from the full diameter at one end to almost a point at the other, is obtained. Smooth the resulting dowel with sandpaper and then cut the sections of the mast, starting at the large end.

On masts or mast sections that are too small to take a standard fitting, an imitation fitting can be made in the manner shown in Fig. 7. Spread a layer of cementaround the parts to be lashed, wrap four or five turns of thread closely together in a single layer, tie the ends tightly together, cement, and clip. When dry, give the threads a coat of white paint. Repeat the painting until the threads are well covered and the whole lashing is built up into a smooth band that resembles a genuine fitting.

An excellent simplified way of arranging the rat lines on large models as well as small ones is to resort to a needle as shown in Fig. 8. Instead of tying tiny clove hitches around each of the shrouds, thread the ratline in a needle and pass the needle through the centers of the shrouds. For effect, a simple knot can be tied at the outside shrouds. A drop of quick-drying cement placed on the joints between the ratlines and shrouds will serve to hold them in place and imitate the "hitch."

Regardless of the time required, however, many model makers look askance at any compromise as far as clove-hitched ratlines are concerned. Tying clove hitches can be simplified greatly through the use of a pair of tweezers (Fig. 9). Pass the ratline completely around the shroud once; then reach through the loop with a pair of tweezers and bring the free end up; thus completing the hitch. A drop of cement on the knot will finish the job.

Small cannon can be simplified by fashioning them from dowel stock instead of metal. Simply place a half-round file on the bench, round side up, and rub the piece of dowel over the file, turning it in the fingers at the same time until a shallow groove is made similar to the one shown in Fig. 10. Next, with a flat file, taper the inner end of the groove and drill a small hole in the muzzle to represent the bore. Cut the gun to the desired length plus the cascabel and trim the breech with a sharp knife. Smooth the edges of the cascabel and breech with a small spark-plug file. Paint the gun black.

For gun carriages, choose stock whose cross section is equal to that of the gun carriage and with a sharp knife cut two notches (Fig. 11). Then cut the carriage to the proper length and file a lengthwise, half-round channel as deep as the radius of the gun. The carriages can be colored with walnut stain. Finally, mount the gun in the carriage with cement.



Many models call for small sizes of chain. While these can be obtained from most ship model supply houses, the amateur often can save money by utilizing odds and ends on hand and inexpensive objects obtainable at notion and five-and-ten-cent stores. A short length of eyeglass chain, for instance, will serve where small diameter chain is desired. For large chain, suitable watch chains can often be purchased for as little as ten or twenty cents.
Small flags can be easily fastened to halyards if the flags are cut double as shown in Fig. 12. Fold a piece of paper and then cut the flag. The appearance of stiffness can be avoided if the flag is cut in a wavy shape as shown instead of rectangular.


Fig. 13

Ship modelers who find the decorative work about the sterns and bows of older ships such as the Mayflower tedious can simplify the construction by following the valuable kink shown in Fig. 13. The carving and fretwork can be simulated by applying lace paper such as is included in candy boxes or used as borders on fancy paper napkins. All that is necessary is to trim the paper to size, glue or cement it in place, and then paint over it in whatever color is desired. When finished, they will form an excellent imitation of intricate carving.
Pattern                               Plaster

Fig.14

On models requiring a number of duplicate carved panels, the model maker can resort to castings made from plastic wood composition. The carving first must be made in a piece of smooth-grain wood. This serves as the master pattern from which a plaster cast is made (see Fig. 14). Once a perfect mold is obtained, it is simply a matter of pressing the wood composition into the depressions and allowing it to harden. Like the plaster mold used in metal casting, the panel mold also must be greased before the wood composition is applied.

Composition wood plastic also can be used for modeling figureheads. Several pins or brads stuck into the stem of the model will serve as a support to hold the composition. Apply it with your fingers and mold it into shape with pointed sticks similar to those used by sculptors. Some final trimming can be done with a sharp knife and small files. Many model makers prefer to use gesso for this work instead of the plastic wood composition.

For a large figurehead, it is better to erect a dummy stem and mold the ornament on that, gluing and nailing it in place on the model when it is finished. Figure heads also can be cast from metal or, if they are simple, they can be carved from a block of boxwood.
 
In cases where a number of carved duplicate panels or decorative pieces are required, the model maker also can make them of wallboard by borrowing a kink that often is used by woodworkers (see Fig. 15). If a piece of wallboard is not to be found, heavy cardboard also will serve. Even very thin cardboard may be used provided several thicknesses are soaked in water and glued together.


                        Softened wallboard'

A mold for shaping the wallboard is essential. This can be anything. Oftentimes, glass and metal ornaments around the home will furnish attractive designs. If a special design is required it can be carved in a piece
of hard wood.

Soak the wallboard or cardboard in water for several hours or overnight until the material has swollen and become soft. Then set the mold, if it is small, on a heavy board and place on it the soaked stock in such a way that the design of the mold comes in the center. Cover the cardboard with a piece of wood and use a number of clamps to press the soft material into the mold. Tighten the clamps as much as possible and leave the mold until the next day.


Stapling   Machine
Fig. I6

When the wallboard or cardboard has dried, the design will be found firmly imbedded in it. The cast carving then can be used in the manner of a regular pressed-wood carving. It can be painted or stained to give the desired effect.

In attaching gunwales to the hulls of hollowed ships, it is often difficult to hold the thin strips in position while being shaped, glued, and fastened. For this and similar work, an ordinary wire stapling machine intended for papers may be used to advantage. As shown in Fig. 16, it can be used to make either temporary or permanent joints in any moderately soft wood up to 1/4 in. in thickness.
 
As in all branches of woodworking, the work of building a model can be speeded up through the use of motorized tools. This is particularly so in the case of small parts that can be turned quickly to shape on a lathe. Of course, many model makers do not feel that they can afford a motor-driven lathe. However, a good substitute for light work can be made for very little.

If an electric motor is available, the lathe shown in Fig.17 can be assembled cheaply. It consists simply of an ordinary chuck mounted on the shaft of the motor. The bed of the lathe and the sliding work support and tool rest are wood. A wing nut passed through a hole in the support and running in a slot in the lathe bed provides a means of locking the support in the desired position. The tool rest is an ordinary nail driven into the side face of the support below and in front of the hole that receives the outer end of the stock. Such a lathe can be used for turning capstans, bollards, and wooden stanchions as well as deadeyes. Also, if a circular disk of wood having a piece of fine sandpaper glued to one face is fastened to the chuck by means of a bolt passed through the disk's center, the lathe can be used as a sander.



If no electric motor is available, a similar hand driven lathe can be assembled by using a hand drill in the manner shown in Fig. 18. Either lathe can be fastened permanently to your bench top with screws or can be held temporarily when needed between the jaws of your bench vise.

When a large number of square moldings must be shaped from rough lumber, you can save a great deal of time by making use of the novel cutter shown in Fig.19. A double-edged safety razor blade is mounted on the smooth face of a flat board by means of two blocks cut to the exact thickness of the desired molding. Screws driven through the perforations in the blade and through the blocks into the base will serve to hold the blade firmly in place. The wood, roughly cut to shape, is then forced through the opening between the blocks and under the blade. The razor edge will shave off just the right amount to give the desired thickness.

If the molding is to be square, it can be run under the blade twice, once for each edge. On the other hand, if the molding is to be rectangular, a second
cutter having blocks equal in height to the width of the molding can be assembled. Be sure when pushing the wood under the blade to keep it flat against the base at all times.

In almost all models there are hundreds of small brads and nails that must be driven into the hull and spars. To handle them with your fingers is a difficult feat. A simple tool that will make it easy to hold and hammer even the smallest brad is shown in Fig. 20. It consists of a short length of magnetized hack saw blade mounted between two similar strips of celluloid or fiber. A machine screw and nut hold the three pieces together at one end while a string binding serves the same purpose at the other end. The celluloid or fiber strips should be slightly longer than the hack saw blade to form a shallow groove in which the brad is placed. The piece of magnetized metal will hold it in position.

Very often when you decide on a particular model you are disappointed to find that the plans you would like to use are not to the exact scale you desire. You may want a model for a particular place over your mantle and the plans may be for one twice that size. Such a predicament can be easily remedied, however. Plan scales and sizes can be changed quickly and easily to agree.

Suppose, for instance you have plans for a model 31 in. long but desire to build the model only 20 in. long. Directly under the side elevation of the model, draw a line AB horizontally and project the ends of the model down to it (see Fig. 21). On the full-size drawing, this line will then measure 31 in.

Next draw line AC at any angle to AB, making it exactly 20 in. long and marking each inch as shown. Also, divide the first inch division into sixteenths or eighths. Finally draw the line BC and the nineteen other lines parallel to it, making each pass through one of the inch divisions on line AC. These parallel lines then will divide the line AB into twenty equal parts. This will be your new scale in which each division will be equivalent to 1 in. on the finished model. To make measuring easier, draw lines through the 1/16 in. divisions parallel to BC. This will give you 1/16 in. divisions on your new scale.

To measure any part or fitting on the model, set your dividers to the length, height, or width, place the divider points on the new scale line, and read off the measurement in inches. By careful drawing and measuring, you can build your model accurately to the scale you have chosen. In a similar way, other scales to give any desired overall length can be arranged. Model plans can be enlarged or reduced.

In model making, various cements and other compounds will be of great assistance in simplifying the work. While most of these substances can be purchased at hardware and model making stores, the amateur can save money by compounding his own according to well-tried and simple formulas.

One of the most useful compounds the ship modeler can make is what is known as gesso. It is particularly valuable in building up imitation carvings as already suggested.

Mixing the Gesso First formula: Into 11/4 cups of whiting pour 1 gill (6 tablespoons) of the best obtainable liquid glue, 3 teaspoons of linseed oil, and 3 teaspoons of varnish. Mix slowly for several minutes. If the mixture appears too thick, thin with water; if too thin, thicken with whiting. Second formula: Mix 10 tablespoons of whiting with water to a thick cream and add 6 tablespoons of liquid glue. Then mix in another dish i tablespoon of clear varnish with 4 tablespoons linseed oil. Stir the latter into the former and boil the mixture for 10 minutes in a double boiler. Both types of gesso may be applied cold and will not harden if kept in a closely corked jar.

Applying the Gesso For a smooth surface, spread with palette or paring knife, dipping the blade into water and going over the work a second time. For haphazard patterns, especially desirable on surfaces that are to be polychromed, apply moderately thick, covering only a small surface at a time, and give a scrolled or lined effect with the point of the knife, or stipple the surface with a stiff brush. For more formal decorations, draw the design on the background and apply the gesso with a small brush, or use confectioner's icing tools or a stiff paper cone.

Finishing the Work For a polychrome effect, gild with bronzing powder and banana oil (Roman or green gold, silver, or other colors) and, when dry, paint with artist's oil colors thinned with turpentine, rubbing off the surplus colors and blending the surface artistically with a clean cloth. A protective coat of shellac, flat or gloss varnish, or wax may be added. For an antique effect, dust the work lightly with rottenstone. The polychrome process also can be reversed by painting the surface first and then topping off lightly with rather dry bronzing colors. For colored finishes other than polychrome, use enamel, oil paint, flat wall paint, poster or water colors. Protect the two last named with transparent shellac. Gesso also can be colored before application by mixing bronzing powders or dry colors with the paste.

Another substance that will be very useful in the model maker's shop is a quick-drying cement. To make such a cement collect old toothbrush handles and other scrap celluloid objects until you have approximately a quarter of a pound. Cut the bulk pieces into small chips and add about a quart of acetone and several tablespoons of camphor. Stir the mixture frequently until all the celluloid has dissolved. By adding about a half pint of alcohol to one-half of this mixture you can provide yourself with a second cement that will be of the slow-setting type.

By obtaining a quantity of leather dust from a neighborhood shoemaker, you can make a fast-setting plastic putty that will give the appearance of wood when it hardens. Simply add the powdered leather to 1 oz. (weight) of scrap celluloid, 1/32 oz. (fluid) of castor oil, 2 oz. (fluid) of acetone, and 2 oz. (fluid) of alcohol, stirring the mixture until the celluloid shavings dissolve and the leather is well distributed. Enough of the leather dust should be added to give the mixture the consistency of putty. If desired, a dye or oil soluble aniline stain can be added to obtain the desired color. Such a putty will be particularly valuable for hiding cracks, building up decorations, and modeling figureheads.

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